The short season of North America’s largest native tree-fruit has arrived! Pawpaws, found in the Eastern United States, have made a few appearances at Buncombe County farmers tailgate markets and they won’t last long. This lesser known and quick to ripen fruit has a custard like texture and a taste most similar to tropicals like mangoes and bananas. Pawpaws are ready to eat when they soften and their green skin begins to brown. The easiest way to enjoy this novel fruit is by cutting it in half, removing the seeds, then scooping out the flesh to eat by itself.
Pawpaws hold important cultural and foodways heritage for those indigenous to the Eastern United States. Not only are the fruits eaten, but parts of the tree have been used to make fibers, ropes, fishing netting, baskets and medicine. Because pawpaws are native to this region, they also support native pollinators. Unlike appealing and fragrant flowers, their dark maroon flowers attract flies and beetles to do their pollination. To learn more about pawpaw history, lore, and cultural significance, check out the book Pawpaw: In Search of America’s Forgotten Fruit by Andrew Moore.
While the taste and smell may not be for everyone, they are not an experience to be missed. This fruit can make for an easy replacement to bananas or mangoes in any recipe, and tastes delicious when baked into a bread, blended into a smoothie, mashed into an ice cream, or added to a pie. This sweet pawpaw jam recipe is a great way to enjoy its unique flavor, and will let you enjoy the often ephemeral fruit (they’ll only last for a few days in the fridge!) for a bit longer. Start by removing the seeds and scooping out the flesh of seven or eight pawpaws, then mashing the pulp with a fork or a blender until smooth. Transfer the pulp into a large mixing bowl, then mix in one cup of sugar, a quarter cup of lemon juice, a tablespoon of lemon zest, and a teaspoon of vanilla extract. Transfer the pawpaw mixture to a large saucepan over medium heat, and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer until it thickens and achieves a jam-like consistency. Remove from heat, let cool, then enjoy!
Because pawpaws ripen quickly, bruise easily, and have a very short shelf life, you won’t likely find them at grocery stores. You can, however, find pawpaws from Oakley Mountain Greenhouses (East Asheville Tailgate Market) and Wild Goods (Asheville City, River Arts District, Biltmore Park, and East Asheville markets). This Friday at the East Asheville Tailgate Market, Oakley Mountain Greenhouses (in collaboration with Hilltop Cream Shop) will have a special pawpaw ice cream made with cardamom, star anise and vanilla. If you have the patience to wait five to seven years for fruit and want to start a grove of your own, you can find grafted pawpaws and pawpaw saplings from Oakley Mountain Greenhouses and High Country Nursery (North Asheville and bimonthly at West Asheville). Be sure you get at least two to support pollination and reproduction.
Also spotted at markets in recent weeks: tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers, cucumbers, summer squash, okra, beets, cabbage, carrots, kohlrabi, green beans, kale, swiss chard, mushrooms, eggplant, okra, potatoes, onions, scallions, peaches, plums, nectarines, melons, early apples, muscadines, Asian pears, sweet corn, winter squash and fresh herbs. Markets offer an abundance of farm-fresh eggs and meats, including chicken, pork, beef, and lamb. You can also get bread, cheese, pastries, fermented products, drinks, and prepared foods. Find more details about farms and markets throughout the region, including hours and location, in ASAP’s online Local Food Guide Local Food Guide.